Goan sunset

This small state, halfway down India's west coast, was a Portuguese colony until 1961. This goes some way to explaining the alternative atmosphere here. Cut off from British India by a wall of mountains and vast alluvial plains Goa relied on trade with a declining Portuguese Empire, but what was lost in British trade it made up for in Portuguese attitude and it retains a distinctly laid-back feel today.

Goa was discovered by travellers in the late 60s who were relieved to have found somewhere away from the mainstream, where holidaying meant simply hanging out, smoking weed and partying on the beach, particularly at full moon. The state quickly grew a reputation for its hedonism and liberal attitude under a hot sun that sets in splendour every evening over the Arabian Sea. In recent years the authorities have tried to discourage the hippies and budget backpackers, angling rather for clientele with fatter wallets, and Goa is trying to shake off its image as a hippy hangout.

Now with a quick rail link to Mumbai and charter flights from the UK, thousands of tourists flock here each winter to relax and enjoy the Goan cuisine - a blend of exotic Indian spices with the Latin love of meat and fish. Many hotels and resorts have popped up over the last few years to cater for this ever-popular destination, but with more than 25 miles of beautiful sandy beaches there is still plenty of tranquillity to be found.

Resorts

See our separate guides to the following Goa holiday resorts: Anjuna, Calangute Beach, Baga Beach, Colvo and Palolem

Attractions

Anjuna Flea Market

Once just a backpacker and hippy hangout selling kaftans and chillums, the Anjuna Flea Market is now more commercial with a broad range of goods on sale. Traders from all over India come to sell their wares: Lamani women from Karnataka, dressed in their traditional garb, sell colourful, elaborately woven clothes, Kashmiri stalls display silver and papier-mâché boxes and Tibetans preside over orderly rows of sundry Himalayan curios. Even if not planning to haggle for anything the market is a great place to watch the world go by and mingle with bands of musicians, snake charmers, beggars and the inevitable juggling hippies. The market takes place every Wednesday.

Address: Anjuna, beach town in north Goa; Opening time: Every Wednesday from 9am till dusk

Old Goa

Old Goa was the State Capital until 1843 when it moved down river to Panaji. Once a byword for splendour, with a population of several hundred thousand, Old Goa was virtually abandoned from the 17th century as the river silted up and a series of malaria and cholera epidemics drove out the inhabitants. It takes some imagination to picture the once-great capital as it used to be. The maze of twisting streets, piazzas and grand Portuguese villas have long gone; all that remains are a score of extraordinarily grandiose churches and convents. Old Goa has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and today is the state's main cultural attraction. Tourists come here from the beach resorts to admire the massive facades and beautiful interiors of the well-preserved churches. The Tuscan St Catherine's Cathedral is the largest church in India and took eighty years to build, finally being consecrated in 1640. The scale and detail of the Corinthian-style interior is overwhelming; huge pillars divide the central nave from the side aisles, and no less than fifteen altars are arranged around the walls. An altar to St Anne treasures the relics of the Blessed Martyrs of Cuncolim, whose failed mission to convert the Moghul emperor Akbar culminated in their murder, while a chapel behind a highly detailed screen holds the Miraculous Cross, which stood in a Goan village until a vision of Christ appeared on it. Said to heal the sick, it is now kept in a box; a small opening on the side allows devotees to touch it. Other sights worth seeing include the Arch of the Viceroys, built in 1597 to commemorate Vasco da Gama's arrival in India, and the distinctive domed Church of St Cajetan (1651), modelled on St Peter's in Rome. Old Goa is a major draw for Christian pilgrims from all over India who come to visit the tomb of St Francis Xavier, the renowned sixteenth-century missionary whose remains are enshrined in the Basilica of Bom Jesus.

Transport: Buses leave regularly for Old Goa from Panjim. Alternatively visitors can hire an auto-rickshaw or taxi. Guided coach tours can be organised through the tourist office and larger hotels

Panaji

For most Panaji is simply a busy bus terminal, however it is worth spending a few hours exploring this most sedate of State Capitals. Situated on the southern banks of the Mandovi River, Panaji only became the capital of Goa in 1843 when the harbour at Old Goa had silted up and disease had driven its inhabitants out. The best way to explore the town is by foot, wandering around the old cobbled alleyways, colonial villas, red-roofed houses, taverns and cafes, much like any small Portuguese town. There are some wonderful old government buildings, some dating to before colonisation and some elegant churches. Most memorable is the Church of the Immaculate Conception, which was built in 1541; it is topped with a huge bell that sits between two delicate Baroque-style towers.

Transport: Karmali or Madgaon are the nearest Railway Stations for Panaji. There are daily buses, both private and government run (Kadamba Transport Corporation), between Panaji and other main destinations

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